Marrakech
Marrakech Doorway
Sumptuous piles of spices tempt the taste buds and vibrant textiles line labyrinthine stone walls. The shouts of hard-bargaining souk shopkeepers burst through the winding melody of a snake-charmer’s flute. Frenetic and fabulous, rich Marrakech absolutely consumes the senses. The unique sights, sounds, textures and tastes draw millions of visitors to the Red City of Morocco each year.
One of the most distinctive areas of the city is the bustling marketplace of Jemaa el-Fna. Designated by UNESCO as one of the “Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” in 2001, the square, located in the old city, is bursting with cultural (and sometimes chaotic) delights.
Five times a day, I listened as the sound of the adhan poured from the high minaret of the Koutobia Mosque, rolling through each dark and twisting derb of the medina.
Bells rang, steam curled in the air from sizzling kabobs and snails, maalems hunched over half-formed earthen vessels or leather babouche slippers.
From morning well into the night, calls of henna tattoo artists, orange juice vendors, and storytellers filled the desert air, punctuated by revving motorcycles and the rhythmic plucking of a Gnoaoua musician’s hajouj.
My respite from the crowds and clamor of Jemaa el-Fna was one of Marrakech’s historic riads, tucked away behind tall walls, where the peaceful courtyard seemed worlds away from the energy of the square. Each riad consists of private rooms looking out onto a central open-air courtyard, a key distinction of Islamic architecture.
The courtyard is constructed around the sahrîdj, a basin or fountain. These light-dappled turquoise pools represent the life force of the home. Exquisitely-painted floral and geometric tilework, hand-carved wooden moucharabieh screens, and vibrant zouaq wood details define these spaces as a uniquely Moroccan enchantment.
Of all the features of Marrakech, some of the most recognized are the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, the lush Jardin Majorelle, and the late designer’s former home, Villa Oasis. “Marrakech taught me color,” Yves Saint Laurent said of his adopted city, where he lived with his partner Perre Bergé. The museum’s red brick facade is massive, and its geometrical form houses the extensive collection of Yves Saint Laurent’s fashions. This brutalist structure is a sharp modern contrast to the sprawling, luxuriant Jardin and the decadent cobalt Villa Oasis. As I strolled along winding paths lined with cactus, the art deco home stood like a gem against the sky.
Yves Saint Laurent Musuem
It seems that there is no end to what one might discover in their exploration of the Red City.